Ingredients

1 cup roasted gram (also known as chana dalia or roasted split chickpeas; available at Indian markets) 

1 tablespoon unsweetened shredded coconut 

1/4 teaspoon vegetable oil 

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, such as Diaspora Nagauri 

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, such as Diaspora Nandini 

6 to 10 dried red chiles, such as Diaspora Guntur sannam (or fewer, for less spice), broken in half 

Kosher salt (we use Diamond Crystal) 

1/2 teaspoon sugar 

10 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled 

10 dried curry leaves (available at Indian markets) 

Preparation

Heat a small, heavy skillet (such as cast iron) until very hot, then reduce heat to low and add gram. Cook, shaking occasionally, until it smells slightly toasty, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add coconut to skillet; cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until fragrant and golden brown, about 30 seconds. Transfer to plate; let cool completely. In a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, grind gram and coconut to a fine powder.

Heat oil in same skillet over high until very hot. Reduce heat to low and add cumin, coriander, and chiles. Cook until chiles crackle (taking care not to burn ingredients), 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate; let cool completely. Grind to a powder in spice grinder or mortar and pestle.

Transfer ground spices to a food processor with 1 teaspoon salt, sugar, garlic, and curry leaves; pulse a few times to coarsely crush garlic. Transfer to a bowl and stir in gram-coconut mixture. Blend can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.